All of the original suspension pieces were removed for sandblasting.

Bagged and tagged... the now sandblasted front supsension items are ready to ship to Totally Auto for powdercoating.

 
 

I received my powdercoated parts back from Totally Auto.  WOW, they look great!

You can't tell in this photo, but the K-Frame was completely rewelded... everything, especially the lower control arm tubes.

 
 

The K-Frame.  Sadly enough, I ended up having to cut out a notch on the passenger side to clear the Milodon 7 Qt. oil pan.  It's not shown in this image however.

The upper control arms, caliper brackets and backing plates.

 
 

The spindles and lower control arms.  If you look close, you'll see that the spindles were polished before powdercoating.

Here are the strut rods, drag link, anti-sway bar and new torsion bars.

 
 

I built the spindle assemblies on the workbench before installing on the car.

So far, so good.

 
 

Here is a side view of the K-Frame bolted in.

I'm using Energy Suspension Polyurethane bushings for everything.

#56101R Lower control arm bump stops - Red
#95164G Greaseable 1 1/8" swaybar bushings - Black
#98120G End link grommet set - Black
#57109G Strut rod bushing set - Black

 
 

New wheel bearings.

I used Plast-Kote Hi-Temp Cast Iron Gray #HP-17 on the rotors, idler arm and pitman arm.  A buddy said to leave the overspray on the actual machined surface of the rotors to protect them from rust until it was ready for the road, so I did.

 
 

I'm swapping from power steering to manual.  Totally Auto found, rebuilt and painted / plated the manual steering gear.  I had to use a different pitman arm, but  they found that for me too.  They also supplied the adaptor to bridge the gap left on the steering column shaft.

 
 

Here is an image of the way over-priced adapter needed to swap from power steering to manual.  You'd think this thing was made out of gold!

The steering gear is bolted in.

 
 

This is the rebuild kit for the manual steering coupler.

 
 

Well, as it turns out, the pitman arm that Totally Auto didn't work, so I picked upa new one from the local Advance Auto Parts store.  The new pitman arm and it looks to be the right one! It was the Moog #18759 and cost about $53.00.  I ended up removing the idler arm to repaint it the same color as the pitman arm.

The calipers are factory items.

 
 

Mopar Performance Aluminum Master Cylinder & Adapter.  Mancini Adjustable Push Rod #MRE316.

I'm using stainless steel brake lines from YearOne, but Fine Lines Inc. manufactured them.

YearOne part numbers for the "Front to Rear" set is #QRA24, the "Front Disc Brake" set is #QRA22 and the "8 1/4" - 8 3/4" Rear Axle" set is #QRA19.

 
 

Hurst #174-5000 Roll Control and Wilwood #260-2220 Proportioning Valve.

To round out the rear, I'm using a Wilwood 140-2279 Pro Street Dana 60 Rear Disc Brake kit.